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4th March 2022
11:19am GMT
The backstory
In 1954 several Victorian townhouses were restored and converted into the Kingston Hotel. In 2015 the people behind Oliveto took the space over and began an extensive refurb, which involved a repositioning of the layout. The name is a nod to the ladies finishing college which was once housed in the space and called "Haddington House".
The interior
The interior is one part Wes Anderson film set one part Moulin Rouge. It's lux, polished and mid-century in the finish, with some amazing flashings of eccentricity. Sometimes surroundings like this can make guests feel a little bit on edge with all the antiques and peacock feathers, but it's a really relaxing place to be.
The food
All too often the food at afternoon tea can be woefully disappointing. Chefs sometimes take on a pastiche of what they think belongs on tiered plates, and create things like crust-less cucumber sandwiches, overly creamed profiteroles and scones that could knock you out with a gentle arm flex. That's what makes this afternoon tea at The Haddington House so special, you can tell it's been created by someone with an understanding of what people really want for tea, who realises that we want a hellova lot more from an afternoon. The food comes in three stages, the savoury plates are made up of little bite-sized mouthfuls with a lot of local ingredients that I think rivalled Chapter One's amuse-bouche selection. The second is a shortcrust scone that comes with cream and jam, the third a trio of desserts one more unctuous than the next.
The drinks
The Afternoon tea kicks off with champagne, Granny and I were not drinking so we opted for a glass of non-alcoholic champagne called Kallonne, which was some of the best alcohol-free bubbles I've had in a long time. With the scones came the tea, which comes loose and strained into a China cup. There were some really interesting tea options available from the Queen of Cherry to Apple Crumble.
The highlight
While the food is hard to match, the atmosphere was probably the highlight for me. It's a calming place, where you could very easily spend several hours admiring the view, the decor and lazily chatting. You emerge with an overwhelming restfulness and serenity, kind of akin to the feeling when you emerge from a spa treatment.
The service
Serve was excellent, attentive, extremely personable and natural. My Granny who is in her 90s was extremely well catered for and looked after.
Accessibility
There is wheelchair access through one of the entrances, there are a couple of steps into the main entrance. My Granny was fine getting in and out, and there were staff on hand to hold the doors open.
Eco effort
There are vegan options available, alongside reusable napkins and menus, the menu also has a lot of locally sourced ingredients.
Anything else?
Warning: a trip to Haddington House will probably make you want to book a stay in the hotel and a reservation in Oliveto.
